The Heart of Spain and Ibero-america

REMAINING AS CAPITAL OF IBERO-AMERICAN GASTRONOMY IN 2021, MADRID’S HISTORY IS STILL BEING WRITTEN AS ITS JOYFUL, SAD AND TASTY MOMENTS THRILL EVERY TRAVELER THAT HAS SALLIED FORTH TO IT IN THE COURSE OF THE CENTURIES. IN THE HEART OF A KIND AND NEVER COL

REMAINING AS CAPITAL OF IBERO-AMERICAN GASTRONOMY IN 2021, MADRID’S HISTORY IS STILL BEING WRITTEN AS ITS JOYFUL, SAD AND TASTY MOMENTS THRILL EVERY TRAVELER THAT HAS SALLIED FORTH TO IT IN THE COURSE OF THE CENTURIES. IN THE HEART OF A KIND AND NEVER COLD SPAIN, A RESTLESS CITY THROBS

Spain -that once was the center of the European-american worldand creator itself of this socio-political and religious entity, an invention of its own as a result of the discoveries of the New World, so called although again it had very little, since the old cultures that populated the Americas were, one could say without any anthropological bias, very old in the mirror of history since that remote emigration of the Asian man through North America, when the perpetual ice of that Age eventually melted down.

Spain was home, from the darkest night of times, to Phoenicians, Egyptians, Romans, Celts, Africans and Americans when they appeared on the scene of the Spanish chronology -and always mixed all the identities and recipes to build its own mare nostrum of mankind.

In the heart of Spain, almost in the center of its map, is Madrid. The name of the decimononic capital stems from the Arabic voice Magerit, although it could also derive from the word Mageterito, of Celtic origin, according to sage Menéndez Pidal. But given its ancient Arab walls that date back to the time of the emirate of Muhammad ben Abd al-rahmman, in the years 850 to 866 A.D., we could say that Madrid enters history when the emir takes over the Visigothic village that occupied at that time the place of insertion of the Main Street with that of Bailen.

In about two centuries, Alfonso VI - under whose reign San Isidro, the town's patron saint, was born - would conquer the city, passing it on to Christian hands. In 1262, Alfonso X the Wise granted Madrid the Royal Charter, and the Catholic Monarchs went to Madrid for the first time in 1477 and they were responsible for the expansion and modernization of the city. The definitive historical backing would be given by Philip II, in 1561, when he consecrated it as the capital

of Spain, although in the time of Philip III the Court would be installed several years in Valladolid.

It should be mentioned that the Austrians made Madrid a capital with a suggestive and differentiated architectural profile. With time, Philip V and Charles III would turn it into a city with a modern structure and extraordinary wealth of monuments. After 1939, Madrid became one of the most populous and dynamic capitals of Europe, with residential neighborhoods, large avenues and modern buildings; although it has preserved, in my humble opinion, that pleasant character of a friendly city, on a human scale, which distinguishes it from certain megalopolises of the West whose enormity would sometimes seem to erase the human depths, almost ants on that scale

MADRID "DISSECTED"

If we were to label a city, if we were to "dissect" a city, and take from it its greatest values and contents, the author of these lines, at least, would choose, first of all, the character of its inhabitants, followed by its architecture and cultural values, and of course the food of the place, although that aspect is increasingly difficult to define as world globalization spreads tastes and accommodates standards everywhere.

Let's take it one step at a time, shall we?. The people of Madrid come from all over; its essence is that derived from the Spanish character along with a sense of capital status, self-importance and the hospitality of a town where historically the popular base was the majority, and therefore everyone is someone, and the sense of solidarity is widely shared.

Unlike many large European cities, where there is a certain disdain for foreigners and outsiders, you can be sure that Madrid, used to being the administrator of a cosmopolitan empire that lasted for centuries, accepts everything and anything goes. The social classes in Madrid were never as separate or as distant as they were in other cities and realities. And there was unity around the Catholic religion and the figure of the King, especially in the

most dangerous and disastrous moments of its history; I think of the women of Madrid, armed with knives and pots to repel the French troops during the Napoleonic invasion, mainly in defense of their city and living space.

ARCHITECTURE & TREASURES

Being a foreigner in Madrid is not so much to be a foreigner, insofar as anyone can get lost in the streets and be a guest at the table or the feast, as the case may be. And if I were given a choice among the many beautiful places or spaces in Madrid, my five favorites would be the Plaza Mayor, the Prado Museum, El Retiro Park, the wonderful Museum of the America and the Gran Via, with its collection of architecture and hidden treasures.

The splendid Plaza Mayor is a jewel in the old town of Madrid and for many the most interesting architectural example of the times of the house of Austria. This arcaded square served all kinds of parties and witnessed trials and executions of the Inquisition. The first important public act was the beatification of San Isidro, patron saint of Madrid, in 1621. That same year Rodrigo Calderón, Felipe III'S secretary, was executed. Although hated by all, his behavior before the trance was so dignified that the phrase "he has more pride than Don Rodrigo on the gallows" still survives.

Juan Gómez de Mora, architect of the Plaza Mayor, was a disciple of Juan de Herrera, author of the monastery of El Escorial. Its main attractions are some of its most traditional style stores installed in its arcades; among these, the old hat stores stand out. A philatelic market is held on Sundays. The southern exit leads to the popular Toledo street, from where you can go to the Rastro, a famous market of used objects and antiques that opens on Sundays. Going down a flight

of stairs, you will reach the Arco de Cuchilleros and the street of the same name, where you will find the traditional inns and the well-known restaurant Casa Botín. This picturesque restaurant, dating from 1725, is the oldest in Madrid. Its roast lamb and suckling pig are still prepared in the century-old wood-fired oven.

MADRID DE LOS BORBONES

We moved to the Madrid de los Borbones, created in an area east of Madrid where a garden area was opened, and where a monastery was built in the sixteenth century. In the 18th century, the monarchs of the House of Bourbon, especially Charles III, extended the city through this area, beautifying it.

The Paseo del Prado was urbanized, with wide decorated squares and fountains, and the building that would one day house the collections of the Prado Museum, one of the most important art galleries in the world, took shape.

The first time I visited the museum I was 20 years old, and the impact it had on me is unforgettable. I will never forget when I almost tiptoed into the room where you can admire the Garden of Delights, by Bosch, or the huge wall that holds Las Meninas, by Velázquez, a Sevillian painter who became a Madrid artist and universal thanks to his blows of light and matter on the canvas, anticipating for centuries the impressionists in his aesthetic treatment.

This emblematic museum preserves the most important collection of Spanish painting from the 12th to the 19th century in the world, as well as a magnificent selection of Flemish and Italian authors. A building that was born Cabinet of Natural Sciences, work of Juan de Villanueva, and as early as 1819 opened its doors to house the works of art of the royal collections.

Nearby are the Fuente de Cibeles (Cibeles Fountain), a work that is considered the symbol of Madrid, and the beautiful and sober

Puerta de Alcalá, of neoclassical style and made of granite, a silent

Madrid, used to being the administrator of a cosmopolitan empire that lasted for centuries, accepts everything and anything goes

witness of the times and travelers. Especially beautiful at night, when it is illuminated.

On the street of Ibiza is the magnificent Peruvian restaurant Ceviche Made in Peru, where the anticuchos, ceviche and pisco, can make us think of the historical phrase "worth a Potosi". Not far away, on Ancora Street, one of the best places to taste typical Cuban food is Al Son de Cuba, where old clothes, Cuban music and the atmosphere make the delight of every visitor who is tempted to enter.

El Retiro Park, a place of dreams, was since 1632 of exclusive use of the royal family, who organized representations, naval scenes in the lake and even bullfights. In 1869 it was completely opened to the public, and since then it is one of the most popular attractions in the city. Rowing boats can be rented, or you can walk along the tree-lined promenade. A great number of musicians, painters, card players, animate the site. There are two beautiful palaces, one made of bricks and the other of glass, which were built for the 1887 exhibition.

Having a hot chocolate in the winter, in front of the lake, is a real pleasure. On the other hand, the Museum of America, less publicized than other places in the city, is a real pearl. On the Avenida de los Reyes Católicos, not far from the center, stands this memorial of treasures, where you can see wonders such as the exceptional

The people of Madrid come from all over; its essence is that derived from the Spanish character along with a sense of capital status, selfimportance and the hospitality of a town

treasure of the Quimbayas, from Colombia and more than 2 500 years old and is one of the best examples of American pre-hispanic gold work, in total 62 pieces of sublime aesthetics and finish. The Tro-cortesian Codex, from Mexico, is a Mayan manuscript, with hieroglyphics made in sheets of tree bark fiber, and miniature with scenes of daily life; it is another of the fundamental pieces of this collection. A piece of America's past can be found in the heart of Madrid, open to all visitors from around the world.

OTHER CHARMS

In the nearby street of Recoletos, Al Mounia, the best restaurant of Moroccan food in Madrid, where they serve Tajine (lamb stew) and authentic couscous, is nestled. Among the smells and flavors of the Orient, one can certainly get lost. And we arrive at the Gran Vía, as if we were starting an imaginary caravan, only

Being a foreigner in Madrid is not so much to be a foreigner, insofar as anyone can get lost in the streets and be a guest at the table or the feast, as the case may be

instead of desert sand, we take a tour of a showcase full of real things of enchantment...

This Via, opened in 1910, is one of the main arteries of the city. Its construction took decades and forced the demolition of many buildings and streets between Alcalá Street and Plaza de España. Such was the commotion caused by this Avenue, that it gave rise to a zarzuela.

The avenue of infinite restorations, as some call it due to the constant maintenance of buildings and constructions, is a spectacle by day and by night. The architectural prelude to the avenue is the Metropolis building, with its statues and Corinthian columns and tile dome. Beautiful iron balconies and modernist gargoyles abound in examples of so-called Spanish style buildings.

The Edificio de Telefónica, the first skyscraper built in the city in 1929, is located in the San Luis Network. From that place extend cinemas, luxurious cafes, tourist stores and a host of memorable and lively places at all times. At the exit of the Callao subway stands the Carrion building, also called the Capitol, one of the most emblematic buildings of 20th century Madrid, in the Art Deco style.

An ideal tour of the great street could not end without entering the San Ginés passageway and entering the chocolate shop of the same name, the only place where you can taste churros with hot chocolate 24 hours a day, since its founding in 1894.

Every city invites an infinite tour through its stories and places, again and again. I must admit that twenty years of returning to Madrid make each tour the discovery of something new, even in what was already known before.

Cities are the memory of the past and the mirror of the future in the present we inhabit. To look into that mirror is to recognize oneself and to live again.

The history of Madrid is still being written, and its joys, sorrows and flavors throb in the memory of all those who have traveled through it, throughout the centuries. In the heart of noble and never cold Spain, there is a city that does not rest, but always dreams and revives from the ashes of history. So be it.